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| The Columbus Dispatch '07 Restaurant Guide - Top 20 |
Friday, September 28, 2007 The Columbus restaurant scene is the most competitive ever, with more types of cuisines and price ranges than ever before. Top-notch establishments abound, so restaurants on this list aren't the only local sources of quality food. Like any other restaurant ratings, this list is subjective. The primary criterion: quality of the food. Value, the surroundings and the level of service also are taken into consideration -- as are other factors, such as the willingness to take reservations, noise level, menu variety and attention to details (quality of the bread, olive oil and butter, for example). The "Top 10" restaurants represent the cream of the crop. The second 10 -- dubbed "the Next Tier" -- also are deserving of mention. Both lists are presented alphabetically. Review visits to restaurants are unannounced. Meals are paid for in full and reimbursed by The Dispatch. The selection of restaurants to be reviewed is entirely at my discretion and is not influenced, directly or indirectly, by The Dispatch. Barnum's Tavern WINE BAR The foundation of the menu inside this high-ceilinged, polished-wood establishment is good steaks and other Americana such as pork porterhouse with cabbage, bacon and acorn squash. But don't let the elegant, upscale-steakhouse decor fool you: There's a lot on the menu, such as large, sauteed scallops that are amazingly complemented by house-made shrimp-and-ricotta ravioli in a sherry cream; and porcini-dusted halibut that has its own, equally impressive vegetable ravioli. The emphasis on house-made from the kitchen supervised by Bradley Balch is evident, from soup to desserts. The latter even include house-made sorbet along with updated Americana such as a caramelly, tart-shaped take on banana whipped-cream pie. Another strong suit is a wide-ranging, well-chosen wine list with markups often less aggressive than the current Columbus norm (and no markups beyond state minimum on Monday night). Serving dinner Monday through Saturday; ample parking.
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